After a little down time on the terrace, we drove to the northwest corner to descend 654 steps into Neptune’s Grotto, which is a huge seaside cave 70 million years in the making. It takes 100 years to form 1 cubic centimeter of stalactite or stalagmite, and lots of these were many meters across and many meters thick. It was an impressive place, with me seeing abstract compositions everywhere, and climbing back up was no problem. In Sassari, I had mussels, while my husband and daughter had homemade porcini ravioli, followed by the best gelato.